A real passion for fakes

What do you do when you've got thousands of fabulous vintage gems you've collected for more than 30 years? If you're Carole Tanenbaum, you not only start selling them, you acquire a star-studded clientele like Sarah Jessica Parker and Catherine Zeta-Jones and, of course, you also write a book.

Tanenbaum's latest project - "Fabulous Fakes: A Passion for Vintage Costume Jewelry" (Artisan, 2006, $35) showcases 800 pieces from her private collection of 3,500 pieces of costume jewels - a hobby that started when she and her husband viewed a collection in London in the early 1970s.

"I was immediately drawn to the colors, scale and designs," she recalls, "a kaleidoscope of gems. I was hooked and my passion for fabulous fakes hasn't abated."

Tanenbaum's book is the ultimate guide for lovers of any kind of jewelry. It's a fascinating and colorful journey through the history of costume jewelry - from the mass-produced Victorian gems of paste and court jewelry, as well as hairwork and portrait styles, inspired by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert; the linear and graphic Art Deco period of Bakelite, Czech crystals and German sterling enamel figurals; and Hollywood's glamour days to the '50s and '60s (her favorite era) when costume jewelry sparkled with designs from Christian Dior and Miriam Haskell, up to the modern day 21st century of glam designer jewels that sparkle from high-fashion runways.

A must-have guide book in any style library, don't be surprised if you end up being a collector yourself. Tanenbaum's passion is contagious. While you can find her pieces at various stores like Barneys, Neiman Marcus, Saks and Bergdorf Goodman, if you'd like to discover a few of your very own treasures, here are a few of her tips for purchasing vintage costume jewelry:

- Make sure the dealer is reputable and knowledgeable.

- Step back and appraise the design. Is it original, pleasing to the eye?

- Notice the quality of the craftsmanship. Does it look like a sound, stable construction, or is it flimsy? Are the stones set properly? Are the stones set by hand in prongs or glued in? Stones that are glued in can yellow or loosen over time.

- Take time to study the piece and ensure it is in good condition. Ask the dealer if any repairs have been made. Look for evidence of soldering or cracks.

- Check the stones. Are they original? Also, notice if the stones have darkened or become cloudy. Are all the stones present?

- Check the clasp. Is it original? Check that clasps are intact and can close properly.

- Ascertain whether the piece is a reproduction or an original. Unfortunately, many reproductions are priced as high as the originals, so do not use cost as your only guide.

- Ensure that the plating is in good condition. Look out for metal pitting, corrosion, thin plating, oxidation or worn enamel.

- Some Bakelite can be tested with Simichrome, a commercial product. Use a cotton-tipped swab to rub the Simichrome onto the Bakelite. The cotton should turn yellow if the jewelry is true Bakelite. Unfortunately, this test is not a guarantee, as some colors, such as black, will not show this effect.

- With Bakelite, look specifically for chips, fading, loose hinges and reproductions. Resin is not Bakelite and should not be represented as such. Some designers are repurposing Bakelite in new designs. This is legitimate, but must be disclosed.

- Sometimes a piece can be flawed but still worthy of purchase. If I find a gem that is cracked or discolored but I adore it and it is not intended for resale, I will purchase it happily.

Sharon Mosley is a former fashion editor of the Arkansas Gazette in Little Rock and executive director of the Fashion Editors and Reporters Association.

© Copley News Service