PERFECT PEARS
How is it that Bartletts seem to go from ripe to rotten on the way home from the market? Some change colors when they ripen but others don't. And some are better for baking, but others get too mushy when cooked.
Pears can be tricky, admits Mark Baker, owner of Johnny-Apple Cheese Place in Plain Township, Ohio. One thing Baker says to remember about ripe pears is "handle with care."
"Pears are probably the second most delicate fruit there is, peaches being first," Baker said. "When pears get ripe, a touch bruises them. People pick them up and give them a little squeeze in the market and that will bruise the fruit, which means in about 30 minutes there is a brown spot."
So how should we handle ripe pears?
"Very carefully," Baker said. "Bosc has a thicker skin and Anjou does too, they are more hardy," he said. "The others, like Bartlett are a softer pear and they can get damaged."
Know we know not to manhandle ripe pears. But how do we know when a pear is ripe if we can't depend on color as an indicator? Bartletts turn from green to yellow, and some red varieties turn from dark red to bright red, but the ones known as winter pears, such as Anjou, Bosc and Comice, change little or not at all.
Determining ripeness is easy, say the folks from the Pear Bureau Northwest. Just apply gentle thumb pressure near the base of the stem. If it yields slightly, it is ripe. Simple as that.
And being able to tell when a pear is ripe lets you tinker with the ripening process.
"To ripen them, you can just put them in a basket on the counter," Baker said. "If they aren't ripe and you want to save them a little longer, refrigeration is going to keep them ripening."
The brown bag technique also works for quick ripening, says Cristie Mather, a spokeswoman for the Pear Bureau Northwest.
Place unripe pears in a paper bag and let them stand at room temperature. When they yield to the gentle thumb pressure test, they're ready.
"That's the cool thing about pears," said Mather. "You kind of control when you ripen them."
Some pears are perfect for baking, others do not work as well.
"The firmer the flesh, the better for baking," Mather said. "Bosc are better for baking because that firmer flesh holds up well. Other pears might not be as good and will get a little mushier, But sometimes that's what you want in a recipe. I always tell people if a recipe calls for a specific pear, it's best to use that variety."
ON THE MAP
Do you know where your pears are from? Chances are, they're from two states in the Pacific Northwest. The Pear Bureau Northwest represents 1,600 pear growers in Washington and Oregon, which produce 84 percent of nation's fresh pear supply. The region is perfect for growing pears.
"It's the ash," explains Mather, of the Pear Bureau Northwest. "Our pears are growing in dormant volcanic regions which are abundant here near Mount St. Helen in Washington and Mount Hood in Oregon."
The organization is mostly made up of family growers with orchards about 40 to 50 acres. Like vineyards, pear orchards are a hands-on, time consuming labor of love.
"We like to say pear farmers 'plant pears for their heirs,'" Mather said. "Meaning that it takes some time for the pear orchards to grow and produce pears to the degree that it's a productive farm."
PEAR VARIETIES
- Yellow Bartlett (bart-let): Ripens to bright yellow. Aromatic, prefect for fresh eating. Very sweet and juicy. Excellent for canning or cooking. Available August-January.
- Red Bartlett and Starkrimson: Bright red skin when fully ripe. Same flavor, texture and use as yellow Bartletts. Available August-January.
- Green Anjou (on-ju): Abundant juice and sweet flavor when ripe. They do not change color as they ripen. Available October-June.
- Red Anjou: Much the same flavor and texture as green Anjous. Remains maroon red when ripe. Available October-May.
- Bosc (bahsk): Highly aromatic flavorful pear. Dense flesh makes it ideal for baking and cooking. They are brown and often russeted. They do not change color as they ripen. Available September-April.
- Comice (co-meece): One of the sweetest, juiciest varieties, and often are very large. An elegant dessert pear that's excellent with cheese. Almost no color change when ripe. Available September-February.
- Seckel (seck'l) Tiny pears with ultra-sweet flavor, maroon and olive green in color. Excellent choice for children's snacks, pickling, or as a garnish. No color change when ripened. Available September-February.
- Forelle (for-ell): A smaller variety. Turns bright yellow with crimson freckling when ripe. Sweet, very juicy. Available September-February.
PEAR WALNUT CAKE
1 cup packed brown sugar
1/2 cup shortening
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup milk
2 fresh Bartlett pears, cored, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup chopped walnuts (pecans may be substituted)
Broiled Maple Topping (recipe follows)
Yields about 18 servings.
Preheat oven to 350 F.
In mixing bowl, cream sugar and shortening until light and fluffy. Add eggs and vanilla; beat until mixture is well blended.
In medium bowl, combine flour, spices, salt and baking soda. Add flour mixture to sugar mixture alternately with milk. Stir in chopped pears and nuts. Turn into greased 12x8x2-inch baking pan. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until wooden pick inserted near center comes out clean.
Spread Broiled Maple Topping over warm cake. Broil 2 to 3 minutes (watching carefully) or until bubbly.
BROILED MAPLE TOPPING
1/4 cup butter or margarine
1/2 cup brown sugar, packed
2 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons maple-flavored syrup
1 cup flaked coconut
1/2 cup chopped nuts, walnuts or pecans
Yields about 1 1/2 cups.
In small saucepan, melt butter or margarine. Remove from heat. Add brown sugar, milk, syrup, coconut and chopped nuts, and stir.
Alternative: Pear Walnut Cupcakes. Prepare batter above. Fill paper baking cups 2/3 full. Bake at 350 F for 30 minutes. Cool. Frost with Caramel Frosting (recipe follows). Top each with walnut or pecan 1/2, if desired. Yields 18 cupcakes.
CARAMEL FROSTING
1/4 cup butter or margarine
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons milk
1 2/3 cups sifted powdered sugar
Yields about 1 cup.
Melt butter or margarine in small saucepan. Add brown sugar and milk. Bring to boil; cook and stir 1 minute or until slightly thickened. Cool.
Beat in powdered sugar until mixture is of spreading consistency.
PEAR LATTICE COFFEECAKE
1 large, fresh red or yellow Bartlett Pear, cored and sliced
1/2 cup sugar (divided use)
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon grated orange peel
4 cups buttermilk baking mix
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
2 eggs
3/4 cup milk
Preheat oven to 375 F.
Yields 1 coffeecake.
Toss pear slices with 2 tablespoons sugar, flour and orange peel.
In mixing bowl, combine baking mix, 6 tablespoons sugar and cardamom.
In mixing bowl, beat together eggs and milk; add to dry ingredients and stir until mixed. Turn out on lightly floured surface and knead gently a few times.
Cut off 2/3 of dough; pat on bottom and 1 inch up sides of 8-inch spring-form pan. Arrange pear slices over dough.
Roll remaining dough into ropes and arrange, lattice-fashion, on top of pear slices. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until golden.
BARTLETT PEAR MUFFINS
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
3 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
1 egg, beaten
1/4 cup melted butter, cooled
Zest of 1 lemon
1 cup diced Bartlett pear (about 2 medium pears)
1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
Yields about 1 dozen muffins.
Preheat oven to 425 F.
In medium bowl, sift together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt.
In mixing bowl, beat together milk, beaten egg, butter and lemon zest.
Mix pears and nuts into flour mixture. Gently stir milk mixture into dry ingredients. Batter should be lumpy, not smooth. Do not overmix.
Grease muffin pans with cooking spray. Fill muffin cups 2/3 full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until tops are browned. Remove from pan immediately. Serve warm.
FORELLE BAKED-IN PASTRY
6 firm, ripe Forelle pears
1 cup diced or dried apricots, diced
1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pastry for double piecrust, homemade or prepared
1 egg
2 tablespoons milk
3/4 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 cup raspberry or strawberry syrup
Yields 6 servings.
Preheat oven to 350 F.
Core pears, leaving stem intact.
In mixing bowl, combine apricots, brown sugar and cinnamon. Fill cavity of pears with fruit mixture.
Roll out pie crust. Cut 2 (2x8-inch) strips of pastry for each pear. Cut the end of each strip so it tapers to a point. For each pear, lay 2 strips of dough together in the shape of a cross. Moisten center of bottom strip with water before placing other piece on top. Place filled pear in center of cross. Brush edges of dough with enough water to moisten. Gently fold dough up the sides of pear, and pinch edges together. Repeat with other edges, pinch tops together to seal pears completely.
Beat together egg and milk. Brush dough surface with mix.
Bake on cookie sheet for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Cool on rack.
Mix together sour cream, sugar and vanilla. Place 1/6 of mixture on each dessert plate; dot with berry syrup. Swirl pattern with knife point. Place pears on plate and serve.
- Pear Bureau Northwest.
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